1 December 2015. Day around town

I decided to use today to catch up with plans after Borneo and to look around town some more.

My first port of call was the Siew San Teng Itua Pek temple that is on my walk to Chinatown. He turned out to be just one of many. The temple had two 'lakes' of turtles inside and they looked rather forlorn and overcrowded. However, the views of the river from the temple were good and the history of how it had escaped being bombed in 1941 was an interesting aside.

I also noticed a memorial to Charles Brooke

  and captured yet another two cat statues.

After all this excitement, I visited the Black Bean coffee shop that I had noticed from previous outings and had a delicious - and aroma-filled cappuccino. And the another. A very helpful radiologist from the local hospital joined me at the table and gave me several places to visit. The openness and helpfulness of people here is really striking.

In truth, it was a rather miserable day and so photos were rather restricted. Not being a great planner, I now realize that the rainy season really does live up to its name and there is a world of difference between here and Indochina in terms of weather at this time of year. Still, it's better than a few rainy days in an English winter!

30 November 2015. Cat Museum and Semenggok

I planned to go to Semenggok this morning, hopefully to see the the semi-wild orangutans at their afternoon feeding time. I had planned to get the 09.50 bus and stay the rest of the day. However, I got to the bus stop soon after the bus had departed - early. Also, it transpired that the Reserve might not be open through the day but instead close between 11.00 and 2.00. I'm still not really clear! Anyway, I now had three hours until the 1.00 bus.  Not wanting to waste the time away, I caught a bus to the cat museum. When I was dropped off, I couldn't believe the building I was pointed to. It was cathedral like in its size and approached up a road with a beautifully cultivated verge.  When I got there, it transpired that the building also housed the regional government and the Cat Museum was just a part of it. Being on a slight hill, it afforded great views back to Kuching.

The museum is still an absolute haven for cat lovers. It houses many collections of all sorts of different cats - porcelain, pictures, the works. There must be thousands of items. There are also interesting explanations of different aspects of cats, such as the Egyptians' worship of cats, cat funeral ceremonies, and the significance of whiskers and purring. I must confess I took in as much as I wanted pretty speedily  but I imagine some people - including my late mother and her sister - could make a day of it.

Once I was done, I went back to the bus stop and waited a while, at which point a kind couple in a car pulled up and offered me a lift into town. Not the sort of helpfulness we are used to in England!


They dropped me off at the Merdeka Place and advised me to take a look at one of the trees. This I duly did and read the plaque beneath it.

Back in Kuching, I got on the bus to Semenggok half an hour early to make use of the cooling system and the bus quickly filled up. I could see why the one I missed had left early. The driver sold the tickets and immediately after a lady walked down the bus to cancel them. It didn't seem the most efficient system but who am I to judge?

The trip to Semenggok is not the most uplifting and takes about 45 minutes. Once at the park, there is a 15-minute walk to the main area where the feeding takes place. The walk is pleasant with nice vistas of forest either side.

However, most of the treks seemed closed and it seems that the Reserve is more for people to come and watch the feeding than to have a day out.

People were assembled in a 'shed' and nearby the was a lonesome and rather smelly crocodile. I'm not sure how he fitted in.

A bit before three o'clock, one of the rangers briefed us on the feeding procedure and told us we might well not see any orangutan because now is the season when they can get plenty of fruit on the forest without coming for a free meal. And

so it turned out.

About twenty of us watched and waited - but no-one came for a meal.


Somewhat disappointed we made out ways back to the 4 o'clock bus and back to Kuching. On the way back to the hotel a solitary turtle outside a temple caught my eye as the token wildlife for the day!

In the evening, it absolutely lashed it down and I got soaked going back to Carpenter Street to eat. A lot of eateries seem to close early, catering more for the daytime trade but I got some duck and noodles at the Chinese stall washed down by a beer and the kind beer man gave me the cardboard tray to hold on my head as protection against the rain. Luckily the rain had stopped by the time it came to make my way back to the hotel and I was able to discard this present.

Sunday 29 November. Around Kuching

Having had something of a lie-in, I set off to explore Kuching further. Along the riverfront, there are a series of plaques giving a very bullet -point history of the place from before its rule by James Brooke and his ancestors to its present day status as, some might say, a slightly semi-detached member of the Malaysia.

The riverfront is a nice place to watch the ferry boats going to and from across the river and generally to hang out and walk slowly.

Venturing beyond it I came to an old dry dock that contained was marked by a plaque giving an account of its opening. Across the road is the bus station and I had a look for buses relevant to my intended excursions.

I then made my way back via the large Merdeka square to Carpenter Street and went to the same place as yesterday for lunch - this time enjoying sate and .

After lunch I took a ferry to the other side and wandered around. It seems less developed, despite housing the main Government buildings, particualarly the opulent 'white house'. It also seemed to have a fair few bugs to bite one and I thought that  next time I ventured across I'd wear trousers rather than shorts!

Saturday 28 November. Off to Kuching

I caught the KL Airport Express which whisked me to the airport in just under 30 minutes. Then, with the 90 minute Air Malaysia flight, I was in Kuching shortly after midday. Rather confusingly, they have their own immigration which means another stamp in he passport alongside the Malaysian one - and another set of fingerprints yielded up. No Shengen agreement here!

The trip to the hotel was easy with a prepaid cab voucher. The only issue was the traffic which seemed particularly bad with Saturday shoppers. Once I had installed myself in the hotel, I went for a walk along the Waterfront and was taken with the dominating Assembly building.

I carried on around town and found a nice street market in Carpenter Street for some fish ball soup. It was very tasty and I struck up a conversation with the other two at the table who were local and gave me some hints in things to do.

I set out again in the evening and seemed to get incredibly hot - I'm not sure if it had got more humid or simply my change of clothing was responsible. I also seemed a bit late at 8.30 to be pitching up expecting to find anyone still cooking. One exception was the massive Top Spot street market on the top of a carpark which has a massive reputation and was crowded as if  in affirmation. It specialises in stalls selling fish and the idea is to choose a fish which they then cook. It all seemed a bit too much for me that evening and I decided to try elsewhere. I was drawn in the direction of music and found myself in a bar which sold beer at a cheaper price than 7/11 and gave away food into the bargain. It didn't require much thought! The music seemed OK to start with but they tackled everything from Santana to Sade's Smooth Operator - with varied success.

After a third beer, the early alarm in the morning was beginning to kick in and I wandered back to the hotel for a sensible night!

Friday 27 November. Islamic Art Museum, National Monument and Botanical Gardens

Checking out the 'things to see' lists, the Islamic Arts Museum was well-reviewed and so I decided to make it my objective. I went by foot and most of the way was easy until towards the end and gave some good views of the KL tower as well as of the monorail.

This tricky bit was around the old KL station and I concluded that one simply had to go for it and keep a firm eye on traffic from all directions.

Then it was an easy walk up the road and past the National Mosque.

The Museum was very welcoming and had a temporary exhibition of Khayamiya - the art of the drapings that make up traditional tents - especially in Egypt.

This was really interesting and the exhibition pointed out how Matisse  had been taken by the craft and how his cut-outs were a facsimile of it.

Close inspection shows how the intricate patterns of the tents are all cut-outs, sewn together.

The permanent exhibition was also interesting, particularly the large room dealing with mosque architecture. It pointed out the range of possibilities, including Chinese mosques that look very similar to temples.

Another room contained many examples of the Qu'ran -- beautifully illustrated

From the museum I carried on up the hill to the ASEAN sculpture park and the National Monument. The sculpture park had a pleasant laid back feel with the variety of sculptures all making some reference to ASEAN  - e.g., Unity is Strength.

The national monument is approached from the scultpure park and seemed to have a fair number of coach tours. The first thing one sees is a war memorial which is dedicated to the two world wars and the War.

Then, through an entrance way is the monument itself. This is explained as representing various facets of leadership.

From the monument I made my way to the Botanical Gardens.  Not quite in the Singapore league for explanation, handout etc, they nevertheless are a very pleasant oasis in this rather car-polluted city.

By now it was about 4.30 and time  to hurry back to make my ROH bookings at 5.00!

That evening, I set off back to th Petronas towers as I wanted to picture them by night.

The KL Tower also looked to my eye far more fetching at night than by day.

On the way back, I thought the tourist office looked well lit.